Everyone’s Welcome—Surfing Scotian Style

By Karlyn O’Hanley

Swathed in forests with a jagged rocky coastline, Nova Scotia is the birthplace of surfing in Canada. Today, the sport has lit up and locally surfing has become more accessible than ever. Whether you’re belly riding, sitting up swaying, or catching a wave there’s no better way to feel alive than drifting on your board.

Keeping stoke levels high and big smiles all the way is the name of the game. Don’t let yourself be intimidated by the waves, gear or perfect-looking Instagram posts. Get in the water and connect- with yourself, your surroundings and your board.

Getting his feet wet surfing for the first time five years ago, Félix-Antoine Larose of Quebec fell so deeply into the waves he now works for Halifax Surf School. “Be careful, surfing is addictive,” says Felix

“You try it once and you’re hooked. Being in the water is an entire sensory experience. You get in for two or three hours, see the seals, birds and fog. Everything around you is changing all the time and you somehow stop thinking about the stressors in your life. You wish the moment could last forever and then the tide changes, the waves dull down and you get out feeling alive.”

From the Halifax Surf School rental stand at Martinique Beach. Félix-Antoine and co-worker Darcy Neale, a recent graduate of the University of Kings Journalism program, were pumped to share what’s happening with all things surf.

“The biggest takeaway so far this season would be the stoke level’s I’m seeing from people just wanting to get in the water and give surfing a try,” says Darcy.

When it comes to having fun feeling good is a requirement. When asked about inclusive sizing for wetsuits Darcy happily says,

“Surfing is for everybody. Suits are interchangeable. It's about the length of the suit and making sure it feels snug and comfy. Most surf schools have a wide range of suits available because surfers like humans come in all shapes and sizes.”

Seasonal Suit Recommendations:

Wetsuits come in men’s and women’s and are measured in millimeters (mm).

Summer- 4/3 mm (4 mm chest, back and upper thighs), (3 mm legs and arms)

Winter- 5/4 mm and 6/5 with attached hoods

Booties and gloves 5 mm

Local surfers have been working to remove barriers for underserved communities to be able to access surfing. SANS has details on their website about both the North Preston Surf and Unama’ki Surf Programs. The programs are designed to create pathways for accessing Nova Scotia’s world-class waves while building a more diverse surf culture for all to enjoy

Photo taken by Karlyn O’Hanley at Paddle Out in Solidarity, Martinique Beach, June 8, 2020.

Darcy’s excitement for the sport shines through as she says, “If you’re new to surfing you gotta learn somehow. Feel comfortable asking questions. No question is a stupid question, wetsuits are foreign until you get comfortable in them. Get out there, find a small wave and giver. Go play I mean it is Canada’s Oceans Playground.”

Other than a couple of surf trips here and there, this is Félix-Antoine’s first try devoting all his time to the sport. He’s even reading, “Driving Minnie’s Piano: Memoirs of a Surfing Life in Nova Scotia,” by infamous local surfer, Lesley Choyce.

When asked where his favorite place to find swell here was, Félix-Antoine coyly says,

”Go on google maps and look for point breaks. There are sweet spots all over you just need a good attitude, a sense of adventure and to be respectful. Don't get stuck trying to catch big waves at the beginning, just catch as many white-water ones as you can and eventually, you’ll stand up. Practice turning on those waves, gain your confidence and then bump up to the green waves for a ride. In the beginning, it's about falling all the time. Keep falling and trying, the best part is it doesn’t hurt.”

When it comes to surfing even the most seasoned surfers recommend being humble. Accepting what the ocean is serving is key when surfing. When in doubt don't go out- always play it safe.

There’s nothing wrong with starting out with a beach break or going out on a small day. Getting caught up in a riptide is easy and dangerous. Let’s face it when you’re surfing, you’re confronting mother nature in her full elemental force.

Know your limits, stretch first and change out of the wind. Remember to surf with a partner or at the very least share your float plan with someone who cares and acts responsibly.

This may seem like an unnecessary detail, but it could save your life. Another big tip: following proper surf etiquette will always work in your favour.

When you get up on your first wave, it feels incredible. It’s not all about riding a wave though and more people need to know this. Moments swaying on your board as birds fly by and the ocean hums are just as sensational. Connect with your environment, feel alive and in flow in a sea where the chaos of the busy world drifts away.

Learn more about local surfing through the Surf Association of Nova Scotia’s website. For more information on rentals and lessons at Clam Harbour or Martinique Beach contact the Halifax Surf School. For more local options check out the links below.

Sea you out there!